The Rise of I’m donut ? – Times Square’s Controversial Japanese Bakery

In the heart of Times Square, where tourists flock and New Yorkers typically avoid, a Japanese bakery chain with peculiar punctuation has made its mark on the bustling food scene. I’m donut ? opened its first US store at 154 West 45th Street last spring, joining the ranks of attention-grabbing establishments that have come to define this iconic New York neighborhood. Since its arrival, this bakery has stirred considerable debate about culinary innovation versus gimmicky food marketing aimed at social media fame. While some herald it as a revolutionary take on a classic American treat, others dismiss it as merely another tourist trap designed to appeal to TikTok influencers and their followers rather than serious food enthusiasts.

The bakery’s most controversial creation might be its “limited edition” anchovy-cheese donut, which exemplifies the chain’s experimental approach. This unusual concoction features a single anchovy laid across the top of a donut filled with an ambitious combination of white cheddar, Gruyère, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses, all brought together with a creamy Béchamel sauce. Another headline-grabbing offering includes a scrambled egg donut, which has drawn mixed reactions from customers and food critics alike. These creations, lacking the traditional center hole that many consider essential to the donut experience, have been described by some as innovative and by others as simply bizarre. The yellow ooze of the egg donut, combined with Japanese mayo and honey, has particularly divided opinion, with some finding the texture and flavor combination disquieting rather than delightful.

Founded by chef Ryouta Hirako in 2022, I’m donut ? claims to “redefine the very essence of what a donut can be.” The bakery has enjoyed months of viral popularity, receiving extensive social media coverage and even earning a favorable review in the prestigious New Yorker magazine. This attention has translated into long lines of eager customers waiting on sidewalks during morning hours, though recent observations suggest the initial frenzy may be gradually subsiding. The pricing strategy is particularly notable, with some specialty donuts commanding up to $9 each – a significant premium compared to traditional American donut shops. This pricing structure raises questions about whether the culinary experience truly justifies the cost or if customers are primarily paying for novelty and Instagram-worthy moments.

The physical space of I’m donut ? reflects a minimalist Japanese aesthetic – a stark, white-on-white interior that some have compared to the clinical atmosphere of a medical facility rather than the warm, inviting environment typically associated with bakeries. What sets these donuts apart from their American counterparts is their “nama” (meaning “fresh” or “raw” in Japanese) preparation method and their brioche-based dough, which the bakery proudly announces is made with “premium ingredients.” The resulting texture is indeed lighter and fluffier than traditional American donuts, with less of the overwhelming sweetness that characterizes many mainstream offerings. However, critics question whether these modifications truly elevate the donut experience enough to warrant the significant price increase and unconventional flavor combinations.

The bakery’s “signature” choices, which like Italian bombolini lack the center holes associated with classic American donuts, have received mixed reviews. The “original” unfilled version and a green matcha variation have been described as underwhelming despite their premium positioning. Other offerings in the lineup include a haystack-shaped peanut butter and jelly variation that might represent fair value at $4 but seems overpriced at $8, and a “choco shell” with cacao ribs that some claim has less chocolate flavor than half-priced equivalents from mainstream chains. Even more telling, a glazed strawberry-chocolate donut (one of the few with an actual hole) was reportedly nearly indistinguishable from a Dunkin’ donut in blind taste tests – a comparison that raises serious questions about the value proposition of I’m donut ?’s offerings.

For visitors seeking authentic global cuisine in Times Square, several alternatives exist that offer genuine culinary experiences without the inflated prices or questionable combinations. Establishments like the Wonderful World of Portuguese Sardines and the Nigerian-themed restaurant Lagos provide distinctive food experiences that represent their respective cultures without resorting to shock value or social media bait. In contrast, some critics have placed I’m donut ? in the same category as the costumed Elmo characters that roam Times Square – entertaining perhaps, but ultimately inauthentic and designed primarily to separate tourists from their money rather than to provide a meaningful food experience. As with many viral food trends, time will tell whether I’m donut ? represents a genuine culinary innovation that will establish lasting roots in New York’s competitive food landscape or simply another fleeting social media sensation that will eventually fade from memory as the next food fad captures the public’s imagination.