Palladino’s Steak & Seafood: Grand Central Terminal’s New Crown Jewel
Grand Central Terminal, a true icon of New York City’s architectural and cultural landscape, has finally received the restaurant it deserves. Palladino’s Steak & Seafood has emerged as a brilliant culinary beacon in a space that sat disappointingly dark for seven years following a kitchen fire that destroyed Michael Jordan’s Steakhouse. The transformation is nothing short of remarkable. As you enter, a sophisticated blue millwork bourbon bar welcomes you before revealing the main dining room, which offers sweeping views of the terminal’s bustling, vaulted concourse from the north and west balconies. There’s something magical about dining here—amid the grandeur of this historic transportation hub, you can almost sense the ghostly whistle of the legendary Twentieth Century Limited train, connecting you to a bygone era of American travel and sophistication.
David Rockwell’s design is a masterclass in elegant nostalgia, with white tablecloths and Art Deco accents that capture the glamour of railroad’s golden age. The attention to comfort is immediately apparent in the plush banquettes and booths upholstered in rich green and blue velvet—seating so inviting that departing becomes a reluctant affair. This careful balance of luxury and comfort has clearly struck a chord with New Yorkers; the restaurant has been consistently packed since its opening just a few weeks ago. What makes this success even more impressive is that owner Joe Palladino isn’t yet a household name in New York, despite his Bronx roots and previous career as an NYPD officer before establishing successful restaurants in Texas and Las Vegas. The dining room’s blue accents serve as a subtle nod to his law enforcement background, adding a personal touch to the grand space.
Under the culinary direction of Chef Sam Hazen, formerly a driving force behind the Tao restaurant empire, Palladino’s menu rises to meet the magnificence of its setting. Hazen has crafted a diverse lineup that accommodates various appetites and occasions, ranging from a perfectly executed $25 burger to an extravagant $260 olive-fed ribeye. What distinguishes Palladino’s from the multitude of other steakhouses in the city is Hazen’s ability to bring fresh perspectives to classic American steakhouse fare. Each dish maintains its traditional roots while incorporating thoughtful innovations that elevate the dining experience. Take the shrimp cocktail ($34), for instance—a steakhouse standard that Hazen serves in two distinct preparations: cold with a fiery Holy Schmitt’s cocktail sauce, and hot after being gently poached in butter. Both versions showcase the shrimp’s natural sweetness while offering diners contrasting flavor experiences. Similarly, the Dover sole goujonettes ($62) transform the humble concept of fish and chips into an elegant delicacy through light, golden battering and expert preparation.
While the seafood options impress, Palladino’s truly shines as a steakhouse, with cuts that rival those served at Daniel Boulud’s celebrated La Tete D’Or. The tableside prime rib service elevates dining to a memorable event—not merely for show but for substance. This boneless beauty from an Iowa ranch undergoes slow roasting and herb coating, resulting in a peppery crust that perfectly complements the meat’s rich underlying flavor. At $125, this giant serving, accompanied by classic horseradish sauce, easily satisfies two diners with plenty to spare. Equal attention to detail is evident in the 24-ounce prime “cowboy” steak ($112), which undergoes a crucial 15-minute resting period after being cooked to a perfect medium-rare. This careful technique ensures that the juices are absorbed throughout the cut, creating a uniform distribution of the meat’s deep, mineral-rich flavor. The finishing touches—a brushing of butter, pepper, and Balinese sea salt, plus a trio of accompanying sauces (tangy, chimichurri, and au poivre)—demonstrate the kitchen’s commitment to perfection. The only slight disappointment came in the form of the $72 “steakhouse board,” a somewhat precious presentation featuring a single shrimp, filet mignon tartare, a slider, and marrow—none of which delivered the same wow factor as the restaurant’s more straightforward offerings.
Dessert at Palladino’s continues the tradition of excellence, particularly with the impressive seven-layer chocolate cake ($28). Unlike many versions of this classic dessert where the layers blend together indistinguishably, Palladino’s creation features alternating bands of dark, milk, and Dulcey (blond) chocolate, each soaked in La Colombe coffee, creating a truly multi-dimensional chocolate experience. This attention to detail extends to the restaurant’s drinks program as well, featuring an exceptional bourbon selection at the bar and a wine list that would please even the most discerning oenophile. While Grand Central Terminal already houses several notable dining options, including the sparkling Grand Brasserie and the historic Oyster Bar downstairs, Palladino’s has quickly established itself as the crown jewel in the terminal’s culinary collection.
The holidays provide an especially magical time to visit Grand Central Terminal, even for those not catching a train, and Palladino’s offers the perfect excuse to linger in this magnificent public space. Whether you’re seated by the window watching the ballet of commuters below, sipping bourbon at the elegant bar, or savoring a perfectly aged steak, there’s something transportive about the experience. In a city filled with steakhouses and fine dining options, Palladino’s manages to stand out not just for its food and service but for its seamless integration into one of America’s most beloved landmarks. The restaurant honors both the terminal’s storied past and New York’s culinary present, creating an experience that feels simultaneously timeless and contemporary. As you dine amid the terminal’s grandeur, you might just catch yourself listening for the whistle of the 20th Century Limited—a fitting soundtrack to accompany a truly exceptional meal.
