The Legacy of Jackie Kennedy’s Purple Maternity Coat

In the world of fashion history, few garments carry the weight of both political significance and personal charm quite like Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ violet-colored maternity coat. This iconic piece, which she wore while eight months pregnant as her husband was announced as the next American president on November 8, 1960, is now heading to auction at Sotheby’s new Madison Avenue headquarters. The coat, a vibrant splash of color that distinguished her from the sea of drab campaign-season suits surrounding her, will headline the auction house’s inaugural Handbags & Fashion showcase. With bidding estimates between $6,000 and $8,000, this piece represents far more than just vintage fashion – it’s a tangible connection to a pivotal moment in American history, when the nation stood on the precipice of what would later be romantically dubbed the “Camelot era.”

The significance of this purple coat extends far beyond its elegant design. When it graced the cover of Life magazine’s special issue introducing the Kennedys as America’s new First Couple, it helped establish Jackie’s reputation as a style icon before she even moved into the White House. The garment’s journey is equally compelling – originally worn by Jackie while she was pregnant with John F. Kennedy Jr., the coat was later shared among expectant friends in a touching display of camaraderie, creating a kind of fashionable fertility sisterhood. This personal history adds layers of humanity to what might otherwise be seen as simply a historical artifact. Sotheby’s Global Head of Handbags and Fashion, Morgane Halimi, articulates the coat’s importance perfectly, describing it as a garment that “gracefully captures the spirit of a turning point in American history” and demonstrates Jackie’s “singular ability to communicate optimism and modernity through style alone.” In Halimi’s view, the coat contains “within its seams the quiet power of a woman whose influence far transcended fashion.”

This auction represents a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire a piece with exceptional cultural resonance – a garment where, as Halimi puts it, “beauty, symbolism and history converge with remarkable clarity.” The violet coat isn’t simply a fashion item; it’s a museum-worthy marker of the moment America entered a new political era, one characterized by youth, style, and the promise of change. What makes this piece particularly special is how it encapsulates the personal alongside the political – a young mother-to-be standing beside her husband as they prepared to lead a nation. The coat symbolizes how Jackie Kennedy would go on to redefine the role of First Lady, infusing it with cultural significance and international influence beyond what any previous presidential spouse had achieved.

While Jackie’s coat may be the headliner, Sotheby’s upcoming auction features an impressive array of fashion treasures that span decades of high-end design. Among the standout pieces is an Alexander McQueen velvet gown adorned with bugle beads from his fall 2007 collection “In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem 1692,” expected to command between $7,000 and $12,000. Fashion enthusiasts will also find an Yves Saint Laurent jumpsuit estimated at $1,000 to $5,000 and a blue-and-gold Chanel tweed jacket from Karl Lagerfeld’s pre-fall 2019 lineup with estimates between $3,000 and $5,000. These pieces represent significant moments in fashion history, created by designers who, like Jackie Kennedy herself, understood that clothing could be both art and communication – a visual language that speaks to cultural values and aspirations.

The handbag selection at the auction further demonstrates the intersection of luxury, craftsmanship, and investment value that characterizes high-end fashion collecting. A rare 1990s Hermès sterling silver Mini Kelly bag could fetch between $80,000 and $150,000, while even contemporary pieces like a 2024 black Chevre Chamkila Birkin 20 with palladium hardware is expected to command $40,000 to $60,000. These accessories highlight how luxury fashion items have increasingly been recognized not just as personal adornments but as alternative investment assets with significant appreciation potential. The high estimates reflect both the craftsmanship involved in creating these pieces and the cultural cachet they carry – much like Jackie’s purple coat, though for different reasons and at a different scale.

The auction, which will be on display at Sotheby’s New York from December 5 through 8 before the December 15 sale, offers more than just an opportunity to acquire high-end fashion – it provides a moment to reflect on how clothing intersects with history, personality, and cultural memory. Jackie Kennedy’s violet maternity coat stands as the perfect centerpiece for this concept. It represents a young woman on the cusp of extraordinary change, both personally as she prepared to welcome her second child, and nationally as she stepped into her role as First Lady. The coat’s rich purple hue – striking and dignified, yet unexpectedly bold for the political arena of 1960 – seems to forecast the distinctive approach Jackie would bring to public life. For collectors and historians alike, this auction doesn’t just offer garments and accessories; it offers tangible connections to moments and individuals who shaped American culture. In the case of the purple coat, it’s a rare opportunity to own a piece of Camelot – that brief, shining moment in American history that continues to captivate our collective imagination more than six decades later.