The Art of Hospitality: Building Community Through Generosity in the Restaurant Industry

In an industry where margins are often thin and every dollar counts, restaurateur Michael Della Femina has embraced a counterintuitive approach to building loyal clientele: giving away free drinks. At his Beverly Hills restaurant Croft Alley, a vintage red light visible from the street signals to passersby and patrons alike that complimentary cocktails are being served. “It’s become a fun little speakeasy thing for a number of years,” Della Femina explains, noting that the tradition particularly resonates with locals and neighborhood workers. “And we make a great martini, or so I’m told.” This community-focused philosophy has proven so successful that Della Femina is now bringing it to New York City, where he recently opened a Soho branch of Croft Alley and his newest venture, Lily Pond, in the West Village. His commitment to generosity runs deeper than business strategy—it’s part of what he calls his “hospitality ethos,” explaining that “it’s not a cheesy freebie” but rather a genuine expression of appreciation for guests, neighbors, and regulars.

Lily Pond represents more than just another restaurant for Della Femina—it’s a family affair in every sense. Named after the East Hampton street near his family’s former summer home, the restaurant evokes the joyful community gatherings of his youth. “It was the source of countless parties and events that brought all of us together,” he reminisces. The restaurant’s leadership reflects this family-centric approach: Della Femina’s wife Laurie helps run operations, son Jack oversees coffee, younger son William manages juices, and niece Annabel directs marketing and social media. Even the interior design was handled by family friends Daniel Benedict and Jack’s wife, Allie. This collaborative spirit extends to the restaurant’s concept, which Della Femina describes as having multiple inspirations, including Monet’s famous water lily paintings and a “bodega riff” that suits its intimate 25-seat space near Smalls Jazz Club in the West Village.

The culinary vision at Lily Pond is what Della Femina calls “elevated pub fare”—bistro dishes with French and Korean influences that balance comfort with sophistication. Menu highlights include an egg salad special on a Sullivan Street Bakery bun, a kimchi reuben that fuses Korean and New York deli traditions, and health-conscious options like a chicken salad wrapped in Shishi leaves to reduce carbohydrates. The fluke tartare serves as a heartfelt homage to the shuttered East Hampton restaurant founded by his father, Jerry Della Femina—the advertising legend whose memoir “From Those Wonderful Folks Who Gave You Pearl Harbor” inspired the hit series “Mad Men.” While currently offering only mocktails as it awaits a liquor license, Lily Pond has big plans for when spirits arrive, including launching a New York edition of Della Femina’s invite-only LA cocktail club, “Martini Confidential,” where the generous spirit of giving will continue with complimentary cocktails, cookies, waffles, champagne, and “other surprises” that embody the restaurant’s welcoming philosophy.

Meanwhile, in another corner of New York’s vibrant culinary landscape, Michelin-starred Israeli chef Eyal Shani is expanding his global restaurant empire with bold new ventures. Shani, whose West Village restaurant Shmoné maintains its coveted Michelin star, is stepping into unfamiliar territory with Bella, an Italian concept set to open in Miami Beach’s Liberty Park Hotel in late January. This 1,500-square-foot space, complemented by 4,000 square feet of outdoor dining area accommodating 110 guests, represents Shani’s first foray into Italian cuisine and signals his growing ambitions beyond the Israeli cooking that made him famous. The Miami expansion doesn’t stop with Bella—a second, yet-to-be-announced concept is also in development for the city, suggesting Shani’s confidence in both his culinary vision and the Miami market’s receptiveness to his distinctive approach.

Back in New York, Shmoné has undergone significant evolution under executive chef Orianne Shapira, who recently celebrated her first anniversary in the position. A former dancer who brings artistic sensibility to her culinary creations, Shapira has maintained the restaurant’s Michelin star while introducing more seafood dishes with subtle Japanese influences, including her signature black cod in pepper sauce. “My vision is to keep developing the kitchen—to stay curious, keep learning, and continue creating side-by-side with my team,” Shapira explains, noting the special pride she takes in leading “the only Israeli restaurant in New York City with a Michelin star.” This accomplishment carries particular weight for her as a representative of Israeli cuisine on the global stage. “I truly believe food brings people together, and being able to share that feeling—that connection—through our cooking is something very special to me,” she reflects. The restaurant has also expanded its wine program through its adjacent sister establishment, Shmoné Wine, which hosts regular tastings featuring guest winemakers.

Shani’s impressive global footprint now encompasses 60 locations worldwide, with a significant presence in New York that includes five Miznon restaurants, HaSalon, Port Sa’id, both Shmoné establishments, and Malka locations on the Upper West Side and in DUMBO. As Shani continues to expand internationally, Della Femina focuses on creating intimate, community-centered spaces that honor family traditions and neighborhood connections. Though different in scale and approach, both restaurateurs share a fundamental understanding that exceptional hospitality extends beyond excellent food and beautiful spaces—it’s about creating genuine connections and memorable experiences. Whether through Della Femina’s surprise free cocktails or Shapira’s proud representation of Israeli cuisine, these restaurant leaders demonstrate that in an increasingly competitive and challenging industry, generosity and authenticity remain powerful ingredients for success. As Della Femina puts it simply but profoundly, “It’s about the locals”—a reminder that at its heart, hospitality is about making people feel welcomed, appreciated, and part of something special.