Sophisticated Supper Club Brings Live Music and Culinary Excellence to Manhattan’s West Side

La Boca, the new restaurant at the High Line-adjacent Faena Hotel, delivers something refreshingly mature to Manhattan’s dining scene: sophisticated live music without cover charges in an elegant supper club atmosphere. Seven nights a week from 8 to 11 p.m., the tuxedoed musicians and vocalists of Orquesta La Boca perform tango, bolero, and classic Sinatra standards at a perfectly calibrated volume—loud enough to appreciate but never overwhelming conversation. This musical offering stands apart from typical restaurant “background music,” with authentic renditions of classics like “La Cumprasita” and “Besame Mucho” that complement the restaurant’s colorful, sensual design aesthetic. Even during the band’s breaks, the jazz and blues soundtrack maintains the sophisticated ambiance without becoming intrusive. It’s a delightful surprise in far-west 18th Street’s dining landscape.

The 163-seat dining room’s design creates an atmosphere of playful luxury. One section features a striking 20-foot mural of a sleek black cat lounging on pink roses, while another showcases happy monkeys adorned with the same floral motif—a design element that extends to the plate rims. Throughout the space, floral-patterned rugs, shell-shaped red velvet seating, burled wood tables, contemporary chandeliers, and Art Deco-inspired lighting create a cohesive yet whimsical environment. The thoughtful lighting flatters everyone, casting a warm glow over the stylish crowd—even those who’ve overlooked the “smart, elegant attire” recommendation. The overall effect is one of accessible sophistication, creating a space that feels special without becoming stuffy.

Celebrated Argentine chef Francis Mallmann oversees La Boca’s kitchen, which has successfully adapted his signature open-fire cooking techniques to meet NYC fire regulations. Using powerful gas-powered planchas, the kitchen achieves similar flavors and textures to Mallmann’s famous flame-kissed cuisine. After working through early inconsistencies, the kitchen now executes his crowd-pleasing menu with confidence and precision. Service matches this level of excellence, with a floor team recruited from top establishments by Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Danny Meyer. These professionals demonstrate deep menu knowledge without pressuring guests to over-order. Mallmann’s culinary approach draws judiciously from Italian and South American traditions, creating dishes that feel both distinctive and comfortably familiar within New York’s eclectic dining landscape.

The menu begins with standout starters like a cheese empanada ($12) that elevates the often mediocre street food staple to something truly special—oven-roasted to perfect texture and filled with a hearty blend of salut, mozzarella, and gouda cheeses. A winter salad ($25) balances bitter chicory and radicchio with bright Granny Smith and Honeycrisp apple slices and a sparkling apple cider vinaigrette. However, not everything succeeds; “Francis’ Minestrone” ($18) misses the mark with its overly thick, creamy interpretation that strays too far from the classic. Where La Boca truly shines is with its main courses, which, while carrying substantial price tags, often provide enough food for sharing. The “Thick Milanesa” ($95) features an 8-ounce veal filet breaded with egg, garlic, breadcrumbs, and Parmigiano Reggiano, finished in clarified butter and served with Dijon mustard—more tender and flavorful than most versions found around the city.

Unlike Mallmann’s Miami Beach restaurant, where meat can sometimes disappoint with dryness, La Boca’s protein preparations display remarkable tenderness and juiciness. The brined and pan-roasted half-chicken ($46) offers equally succulent white and dark meat, naturally juicy and complemented by chanterelle mushrooms, roasted potatoes, and baby carrots. The Snake River Farms Wagyu strip steak ($105) delivers rich, mineral-forward flavor at less than half the price of the 32-ounce ribeye ($275). Pasta dishes also impress, particularly the al dente tagliolini in Provencale sauce with generous portions of luscious Montauk Royal Red Shrimp ($39). Seafood enthusiasts will appreciate the plancha-seared branzino ($55), featuring firm, flaky fish with crispy skin, mushroom escabeche, and crispy sunchokes. Not every dish succeeds—a quartet of Colorado lamb chops ($105) arrived overcooked, sinewy, and lacking flavor despite the premium price—but excellent desserts, including standout dulce de leche profiteroles with a hint of cinnamon, help smooth over any disappointments.

La Boca represents a welcome addition to Manhattan’s dining landscape, combining sophisticated live music, thoughtful design, and accomplished cooking in a setting that feels both special and comfortable. While prices run high, the quality of ingredients, preparation, and overall experience generally justifies the expense. Most dishes demonstrate Mallmann’s skillful approach to flavor and texture, even without his signature open flames. The combination of excellent food, professional service, and nightly live music creates a dining experience that appeals to adult sensibilities—a place where conversation, cuisine, and culture harmonize without the pretension often found at similar establishments. As tango strains fill the air and plates of beautifully prepared food arrive at the table, La Boca offers a dining experience that feels both transportive and genuinely New York: cosmopolitan, creative, and confidently executed. It’s worth bundling up for on even the coldest winter nights.