The $569 Turkey Drumstick Holder: A Tale of Thanksgiving Extravagance

In my family’s many Thanksgiving gatherings over the years, we’ve somehow managed to enjoy our turkey without the apparent must-have luxury item of the season: a sterling silver turkey drumstick holder. Our celebrations have always leaned more toward the cozy warmth of “Gilmore Girls” than the formality of the “Gilded Age” – plenty of lively conversation, minimal ceremony, and no one minding if things get a little messy. After all, a simple $2 cloth napkin has always been perfectly adequate for cleanup. But in today’s world, where luxury items increasingly separate the haves from the have-nots, I found myself wondering: what’s the appeal of the Robbe & Berking Dante Drumstick Clamp, priced at a staggering $569 for sterling silver (or a mere $372 for the silver-plated version)? And more importantly, is it worth it?

This ostentatious utensil, designed to securely hold a poultry drumstick so diners can eat without soiling their fingers, dates back to the late 18th century. As Karolina Stefanski, silver expert and historian at Robbe & Berking, explained to me, it emerged when eating with one’s fingers became “increasingly improper” in polite society. Fast forward to today, and this anachronistic dining tool has suddenly found new popularity, largely thanks to Houses & Parties, an aspirational entertaining website founded by Sofia Coppola’s party planner. After listing the less expensive version with a playful description urging customers to “hold your drumstick like a microphone,” the retailer quickly sold out. I managed to secure what was allegedly the very last one in stock, setting me up for my pre-Thanksgiving experiment.

Before diving into my turkey feast, I consulted etiquette expert Myka Meier, founder of NYC’s Beaumont Etiquette, for guidance on proper usage. She assured me that Thanksgiving is indeed the perfect occasion for such an extravagant item, noting, “It’s definitely not an everyday item—it works best when used sparingly so it feels special. This is the type of piece you bring out for a holiday meal, a themed dinner, or a once-a-year festive moment when everyone is already in a celebratory spirit.” Despite Meier’s advice to keep my gestures “smooth and effortless, with no theatrics,” my first attempt at using the clamp was anything but graceful. I struggled to fit the medium-sized drumstick into the small circle of tines, instantly coating my hands with herbs and drippings—precisely what the device was meant to prevent.

The problem, it seemed, was that today’s turkey drumsticks are simply too large for this historical implement. After an awkward interlude of bone-shaving that felt more appropriate for a horror movie than a Thanksgiving dinner, I finally managed to secure a downsized drumstick in the clamp. The meal had been prepared by Chef Mike Jennings of King of Queens Soul in Astoria, and once the drumstick was properly secured and the screw tightened, I did find myself enjoying a newfound elegance in the dining experience. Despite the absurdity of the situation, I sat up straighter, ate more deliberately, and felt a certain refinement that wouldn’t normally accompany gnawing on a turkey leg. Still, I couldn’t help wondering what my family and friends would think if I were to suddenly produce this silver contraption at our next holiday gathering.

In place of my bewildered loved ones, I had Chef Adrienne Cheatham, former executive sous chef at Le Bernardin and co-host of The Chef’s Cut Culinary Podcast, to witness my foray into excessive dining accessories. She couldn’t contain her amusement, describing the tool as “gorgeous” but “100% not necessary.” “It’s giving 1920s opulence—which on the one hand I love, and on the other hand, it’s wildly expensive,” Cheatham remarked. “My initial thought was, it’s excess—not a need, maybe not even a want.” When I asked what budget-conscious hosts might do to achieve a similar effect without the hefty price tag, she suggested simple alternatives like cut foils or paper covers that provide “that dainty, ‘I don’t want to put my bare hand on the bone’ kind of thing—without spending almost $400 just for one device.”

If you’re still tempted to acquire this conversation piece for your holiday table, the sterling silver version remains available directly from Robbe & Berking for $569—though delivery in time for this Thanksgiving seems unlikely. But as my etiquette expert Myka Meier reassured me, that’s perfectly fine. “True elegance comes from thoughtful hosting—warm hospitality, a well-set table, and making guests feel welcome,” she explained. “A silver drumstick clamp is fun flair, but it’s not what makes Thanksgiving feel gracious or elevated. It’s simply an amusing accessory for those who love a touch of theatricality.” And perhaps that’s the most valuable takeaway from my experiment with luxury dining accessories: while such items may add a certain glamour to special occasions, the heart of any memorable gathering lies not in silver utensils, but in the warmth of the company and the thoughtfulness of the host. This Thanksgiving, I’ll probably stick with my $2 napkin—and save the other $567 for something a bit more practical.