Seahorse: A Refreshing Renaissance in Union Square’s Culinary Scene
After four years of anticipation, Seahorse has made a spectacular entrance into Manhattan’s dining landscape, establishing itself as the crown jewel of Union Square’s culinary rebirth. This new seafood haven inside the W Hotel represents a collaboration between restaurateur John McDonald and the talented chef John Villa, who together have created something truly exceptional. The restaurant has revitalized an area that lost much of its gastronomic appeal following the closures of neighborhood staples like Coffee Shop and Bluewater Grill. Now, alongside the famous Greenmarket, Seahorse is breathing new life into this historic district, with the upcoming addition of STK steakhouse across the street promising to further enhance the neighborhood’s reputation as a dining destination.
The physical space itself, masterminded by acclaimed designer David Rockwell, strikes an impressive balance between elegance and accessibility. The interior features a thoughtful arrangement of booths, banquettes, and tables that creates an atmosphere of spacious conviviality. Nautical blue accents establish the maritime theme without veering into kitsch, while rich teak walls offer a subtle nod to McDonald’s famous Lure Fishbar without simply duplicating its yacht-inspired aesthetic. This carefully crafted environment provides the perfect backdrop for Villa’s culinary artistry, creating a cohesive experience where design and cuisine complement each other beautifully.
Chef John Villa brings an impressive pedigree to Seahorse, having previously led culinary operations for the massive Tao Group and earned acclaim at his own Portuguese restaurant Pico in Tribeca. When McDonald approached him about Seahorse, he challenged Villa to commit fully: “Don’t take the job unless you want to put your heart and soul into it.” The chef has clearly risen to this challenge, delivering a menu that showcases both technical precision and genuine passion. His creations benefit from Mercer Street Hospitality’s substantial resources and commitment to sourcing exceptional ingredients, many from Union Square’s own Greenmarket. This farm-to-table approach grounds the sophisticated menu in seasonal freshness and supports local producers.
The seafood offerings demonstrate Villa’s mastery of his craft, particularly in his handling of delicate fish preparations. The Dover sole, a notoriously challenging tableside service item, is deboned with impressive skill and efficiency by the well-trained staff. The fish itself is a revelation—buttery, meaty, and perfectly complemented by a classic meunière sauce and brown butter. At $69, it represents remarkable value for such a premium dish. Other standouts include the roasted Maine cod ($42), which maintains perfect lightness while being enhanced by green olive tapenade and tomato reduction, and the olive oil-poached swordfish ($44), a delicate achievement served with artichoke barigoule. What sets Seahorse apart from many seafood restaurants is Villa’s ability to avoid the common pitfalls of overcooked or poorly prepared fish, consistently delivering moist, flavorful results that honor the quality of the ingredients.
While seafood takes center stage, Villa demonstrates impressive versatility with his non-fish offerings. The roasted half-duck ($42) exemplifies this range, featuring both a boneless breast and leg on the bone, glazed with a perfectly balanced orange sauce and duck jus that would make many French establishments envious. Even seemingly simple dishes like the large raviolo ($22) become memorable experiences, with its filling of ricotta cheese, corn, and a raw, pasture-raised egg yolk that creates a luxurious golden sauce when cut into. This attention to detail extends to the dessert menu, where unpretentious but expertly executed options like the gluten-free dark chocolate mousse provide a satisfying conclusion to the meal without unnecessary complexity or pretension.
Seahorse represents the culmination of the W Hotel’s $100 million redesign, filling the void left when Todd English’s Olives departed a decade ago. The restaurant’s immediate success suggests that the extended development period was time well spent, resulting in a dining establishment that exceeds expectations at every level. From the thoughtful design to the impeccable service and, most importantly, Villa’s outstanding cuisine, Seahorse has quickly established itself as not just another hotel restaurant but as a culinary destination in its own right. Its arrival marks a significant moment for Union Square, signaling a welcome return to prominence for this historic neighborhood’s dining scene. For those fortunate enough to secure a reservation at this in-demand establishment, Seahorse offers a dining experience that manages to feel both fresh and timeless—sophisticated without being stuffy, ambitious without being pretentious, and ultimately, thoroughly satisfying.
