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Think Cali holds the monopoly on surfing in the continental US? Kook, please.
“California surfing is garbage,” says Peter Panagiotis, pointing to the Golden State’s hyper-crowded waters and beaches with their overly rude surfer dude ‘tudes.
His aka is Peter Pan — a sobriquet very apt for the young-at-heart 75-year-old, who started at 13, and is still shredding the breakers of Narragansett, RI, just 30 miles due south of Providence, like a wave-wizarding wunderkind.
He has similar shivving shares on Hawaii, Huntington Beach, Florida, even France, having been around a tad. He also believes making surfing an Olympic sport was the wrong move. “It seems less cool, same with snowboarding and skateboarding.”
Pan works at the beach town’s storied Narragansett Surf and Skate shop which has collaborated with likes of Bic Sports (yes, they of the pen and lighters!) among others, existing in various forms, names and places around the state since 1962. It’s also where he operates his Peter Pan Surfing and SUP Academy.
Though born at Manhattan Women’s Hospital in NYC, he and his fam moved to Providence after just six months.
The now-septuagenarian was a fine arts major at the University of Rhode Island, became an art director at several mags in NYC including Travel + Leisure, Car and Driver, Scholastic Magazine and Warner Communications in Manhattan during the “Mad Men” era before becoming Narragansett’s famed surf sensei “where this 1½-mile stretch is the best place to learn on the entire East Coast.” (With second place seemingly going to Long Beach, NY, and the Rockaways).
But Pan and his fellow surfing gurus, including his likewise gifted daughter Tricia (there’s one coach for every five studious groms who, rarely local, are from New York, Connecticut and beyond) are not for the faint of heart: “Surfing is a competition for a–holes; tough guys and gals. Out here it’s great, it’s so empty, I often get to be the only a–hole. It’s a greedy and selfish sport … and I give tough love on Day One.”
But it’s also fantastically fun and worth the mental and physical thrashing.
If you’re here looking for Ankle-slop City, you’ve floated into the wrong place. These waves, although beginner-friendly, mean business, ranging from 2-to-3 feet and water temps dipping to 38 degrees in the winter (so going now, pending hurricanes, is advised).
It’s a greedy and selfish sport … and I give tough love on Day One.”Peter Pan, Narragansett Surf and Skate instructor
But best of all, you won’t meet-n-greet with any manhunting, dentally blessed sharks like in Stinson Beach, Calif., or those swarming Cape Cod “who love the taste of the Mass-holes who surf up there,” Pan ribs.
So, zip up your heavy-duty, Pan-approved O’Neill full wetsuit — you’ll need it, it’s nippy in that drink — and double your pleasure, double your consonants in our favorite surf city: Narragansett.
Ten hangouts for hanging 10
• Board of education
Warm Winds
This aquatic academy for surf-aspirants offers group and private lessons for all skill levels, including rentals, and it’s conveniently located right by Narragansett Town. Need to tick your do-gooder box this summer? They have an ecological bent by conserving resources and preventing pollution and waste in their daily business ops.
Rhody Surf
This nearly oxymoronically named sea seminary in nearby Newport specializes in beginner lessons, kids’ camps and surf and yoga retreats for woo-woo thalassophiles. They offer private surf and SUP lessons and board rentals.
Water Brothers
In order to wipeout with class, you have to look the part. Start with the board. This fraternally named WB company, also in Newport, doesn’t make “Bugs Bunny” cartoons. Established in 1971 by wavester-n-skatester Sid Abbruzzi, it’s a legendary surf shop with a focus on “shape-your-own” board experiences by appointment only.
Narragansett Surf and Skate
Become chairperson of the board after browsing all of the world’s best (it’s the longest-running Hobie dealer on the East Coast) at this over-half-a-century-old forementioned outpost, school and one-time team sponsor of champions.
But, as Pan advises, skip using Mr. Zog’s Sex Wax, no matter how rizz its name, and go for Wax Mat instead for even less slippage. Its lessons are also winter-friendly.
• Chow-a-bunga
Coast Guard House
This fine-dining establishment specializing in local seafood is set within a real, historic coast guard house built in 1940 which hasn’t aged a bit (spiritually, anyway). With its stellar views of the Pier Districts’ historic Narragansett Bay, we truly thank it for its service.
Matunuck Oyster Bar
This surfer fave in next-door South Kingston burned down earlier this year (no, not by the Providence mob . . . we think), but you can now eat there again al fresco under a giant tent at the Matunuck Marina — and its bivalve-heavy, pond-to-table menu is fittingly fire.
Crazy Burger Café
Featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” this eclectic surfer joint is famous for its $16 Whassupy Burger (beef coated with sesame-fennel, wasabi rub, topped with brie and onion rings, all on an ancient grain bun with a side of wasabi-chipotle mayo). Money enough for Guy Fieri? Then it’s money enough for us.
George’s of Galilee
This locally owned resto-bar sits next to one of the main ports where ferries ship locals and visiting aliens alike between the mainland and Block Island. The owner is also a surf cat, as are many of his patrons.
• Gnarly grinders
Cool Beans Café
The name is a little 2000-and-late, but this beachside staple for breakfast burritos, açaí bowls (TikTok it) and cold brew, perfect for pre- or post-surf fuel, never goes out of style.
Fuel Coffee Bar
When it comes to gulping down foam, the ocean is a no-no — but from here, it’s a yes-yes thanks to coffee from Rhody Roasters.
